Normally #6 - 3 conductor NMWU (65 Amp rated) would be sufficient, however, with voltage drop for a total of 80 feet from the panel to the hot tub, suggest using a minimum size of #3. Teck-90 is absolutely suitable for direct earth burial (-40C _+90C FT4 rated).
It is like an NMWU with an overall aluminum interlocking armour, AND overall outer jacket on top of that.
If you are installing a GFCI breaker directly in the panel and feeding the hot tub directly from that there is no need for another ground rod. Your panel and house is already grounded with one and the GFCI breaker protects you, the hot-tub and your panel.
Besides I wouldn't want a ground rod right by the hot tub. The earth around it would be energized should there be a current leak or strike and if the earth is wet. Zounds.

I've done lots of tubs and I don't think 80 feet is a problem. After 100 ft I would upgrade one size. There is the problem of voltage drop and you can get nuisance tripping due to the impedence of the wire fooling the GFCI control circuit.
The manufacturer will tell you what size breaker you need. They calculate this by the size of the heater usually 6KW. and the total motor loads. If your tub calls for a 60 amp breaker it likely has two or three motors. If your motor load is more than 50% of your total load , under section 28 you can argue that your breaker can be larger than the rating of your wire. There is a calculation for this. In any case I would run 3C #6awg ACWU ( good for direct burial and 1/3 the cost of copper) from the GFCI into the spa pak and use a 4+11/16 J box and switch to NMD 90 #6 copper. You need copper conductors to terminate. ACWU #6 is good for 60 amp sevices and sub services. Most inspectors will allow it for the tub appllication since it can carry 55 amps and you will never load it to capacity.
Forget the ground bar.

Yes Teck90 is OK to run underground, unprotected (table 19 CEC) your local inspection department may require some mechanical protection in the trench (treated wood planks). The depth required is 18" or 12" if the plank protection is used unless the cable is run under a driveway or roadway of some type.
The vague specs could be an indication the the hot tub assembly is rated to run at three different volltages. (yoou might not need a 60A 240V circuit) Without seeing the label in person I couldn't say for sure.
The distance is at the limit for 3 conductor #6 cable, you should use a larger size (#4 would be fine, #3 is more readily available). If you want to run more circuits off of your hot tub you will need to install some type of load centre to house the required circuit brakers, you can't just tap off a couple of circuits from the hot tub feeder cable.
You can install a ground rod at the hot tub if you want to, BUT the new ground rod must be directly connected to the existing ground rods. The bond wire in the Teck90 cable "grounds" the hot tub for you anyway.
If you do install a sub-panel be sure to isolate the neutral pad from the ground bus. This is usually acomplished by removing a screw or strap. If you don't you will have created the potential for harmful circulating currents in the Teck90 cable.
I'm not sure if there are any B.C. provincial or municipal special requirements for your installation, but your inspector should be willing to answer any direct questions you have, prior to inspection. Good Luck

You need #2. That's to strict code taking into account the volt drop for the long run. In reality, at least in alberta, we'd proly use #6 and ignore the distance or if you wanted to go on the safe side a #4. You can use tek (yes, it can be run without a conduit), its easy to run but can be quite costly. if you want to save money use AC 90 inside the house if its a long run inside and then put a box (6" x 6" weather proof if outside should do) just inside or just outside (with the AC 90 coming into the back of the box) and marrette the two in the box. Depending on the panel you have, you may need to buy a special sub-panel with the breaker in it. Some 60A GFCI breakers fit your panel some have a seperate sub depending on brand name. You shouldn't need a ground rod because your house should already be grounded. Here in Alberta houses of early 60's and on are for the most part grounded. I'd get an electrician to bring the wire into your panel and make the final connections. Make sure to use weatherproof connectors where needed.

if you have a lead pipe with a brass ring then i would have to say that the lead pipe is not properly connected to the 3" a that abs pipe that or the abs pipe is crasked it is not jsut the wax ceal due to the fact that if the wax was not cealing properly there would be water around it
check your pipes

Yes, it is possible to have a leak that does not appear on the bathroom floor. The most likely cause is that the water closet wax setting seal is no longer making contact with both the horn on the bowl and the WC flange surface. Replacing the seal requires that you lift the water closet, clean the old seal from the flange and replace with new. Before you reset the WC, check that the flange was properly glued; that there are no cracks in the fittings (stress can cause this); that the flange itself is not too low (ie top of flange is flush with the finished floor ... you can install a flange extension kit or buy a wax seal with an extension incorporated into the design to solve this - not just a regular horn seal though); you might also check for a crack in the bowl - underneath that is. It is not that common, but I have had to set bowls on saw horses, plug the trap outlet and fill with water to find a leak. Make sure that you also have new flange bolts on hand and a new water (closet) supply. Last but not least check that the sub-floor is not rotten - you may have to cut the bad out and install a new piece of plywood. (Not as bad as it sounds ...). Cheers, and good luck.

Yes, I would remove the water closet from the base then double check the the floor flange has been properly glued and that it is fastened to the floor. So as not to move. Then install a new wax seal and secure the water closet back down. Good luck.

Yes it is possible. The most likely reason is because the wax ring which is suppose to make a waterproof seal from the toilet to the toilet flange on the floor is no longer making full contact to the toilet or the flange. If you are handy you can remove the toilet , clean the old wax ring off the bottom and replace it with a new one. Best of luck.

Best practice dictates Garage ceilings and walls must be gas tight in Canada and fire resistant in the USA. Gas tight requirements include gyproc sealed with appropriate tape and occupant doors into the home that automatically close. A garage with plywood or OSB sheathing would typically be called out in a home inspection.

Don't do the drywall thing, my neighbor and i have been going toe to toe with finishing our rather new houses, and finishing the garage was challenge number 1. He went drywall i went OSB and he couldn't stop talking about how he loves my garage. He says it's more durable and looks like a garage. 4x8 sheet of OSB was $6 bucks when i did it. I'd like to ask the guy who said go with 5/8's because if you did do that, it would be even harder and heavier to work with, and i was so glad i had 3/8's thickness. Cutting out light sockets and such will prove to be a challenge. Be sure to rent a lift for the cieling, a friend and i did everything with two ladders and it was manageable but a work out. Remember you snow shovels and rakes will not take a rip out of the wall if you use OSB if you go with Drywall you are asking for it. Cheers!

I personally used slot wall against one of the walls for easy and adjustable storage and gypsum on the others. My garage is heated though so dampness is not an issue. Your best bet is to check your local codes before doing anything but look at what you need to use the walls for and make a layout on graph paper. After everything is laid out, the solutions usually present themselves.

Check with your local building code. There are possible fire restrictions with covering garage walls with plywood. Gypsum board would be the recommended covering.

I would change the size of the pipe from the water meter to the hotwater tank all the way up to the supply line to just before before leaving the basement to upstairs to 3/4". Also change cold supply to this point as well. Using todays pex water lines, it's inexpensive, light weight and easy to install.

take apart your existing shower head...look for a little plastic disc inside(alot of times its green) where the connection betweeen the shower head and shower arm is made, that disc is called a 'water saver' removing that stops the flow restriction.i only do that when installing a new showerhead and i KNOW the customer has bad water pressure or if they ask me to do so.

If it is a very old home chances are you have galvanized pipes in the house. These pipes have a very bad habit of corroding and blocking themselves. If this is the case then you would have to replace the piping in the house. sorry

It is also possible that the water tempature control valve is malfuntioning and having your tank seviced before doing any repairs yourself would be wise. If your T&P relief valve is working properly this could be saving you and your family from being hurt or worse. So changing the valve could be dangerous being that the new valve might not operate properly. Call a professional for a quick inspection and if all is well then he'll let you know what step to take next.

the valve itself is called a TPR valve (temperature pressure release) and i wouldnt go out and change your water heater becasue of it leaking, depending on your water supply some tanks last for 30 years or more, and quite well i might add(saskatoon...see tanks last that long...regina, they rent them there(lease) because the fall out the bottom after a year or two)turn the water supply off to the tank, turn of your ignition source(breaker, or to 'pilot' if gas)drain out enough water depending where your TPR valve is so water doesnt shoot out of the hole...take it out and make sure to teflon tape AND pipe dope the new TPR valve(non-lead based dope) and re-install it, reverse the actions above. never 'quick' fix something like that...its malfuntioning, and water+heat+pressure=hydro bomb, dont let it go too long without replacing something like that. (:

A few years after purchasing a new home, I read that one is suppose to test the EPR valve on the tank every year or so. One time, I did just that and I couldn’t get the thing to shut off completely. I had to replace the value only, a few years later the tank began to leak. Depending upon the age of your tank, it might be a quick fix in your case. I have yet to see a new tank go over the ten-year mark before it begins to leak and a replacement is required. Hope this helps?

From the floor outside the tub is 7'. Good luck.

there is no standard height, if its acrylic, you have to look at the destructions and find that out...if your using tile...stand in the shower area, hold the valve rough in about where you would like it and try(not always) to put the shower stand pipe(for the head) as high as possible then drop it down about 4 inches(so when you turn the shower head arm in...with a long screwdriver inserted, you dont hit the roof)in otherwords, eyeball it.

I can't really answer your question, you can always call a plumber. After saying that, it depends on you. I'm 6'3" tall and a standard height just doesn't cut it. I stood in my tub and measured the spout for my height. It's higher than normal but the water doesn't shoot down on my chest. It's up to the individual I guess. If it's for you, stand in the tub and put it where you want.

Adapters are available so you can plug in your three prong electrical devices. You might want to check the Landlord and Tenant act in your area as motivation for your landlord.
Really this is a question of whether your renter's insurance will cover contents in this
accomodation.

This is a problem with the landlord, they should have this changed and updated to code. There are adapters, but deffinetly not a good idea. The first awnser is an excellent quick and easy fix. But this is a safety issue that your landlord needs to take seriously

I dont believe there are cheater adapers where there is a shock hazark... The best thing for you to do is find the first plug in the circuit and instal a GFI plug(bathroom plug with the test button) and hook the rest of the plugs on the load side of the plug.... This would make it safe to change the plugs to 3 prong..... It would be better to rewire the plugs but this is an alternative way that would be safer then using cheap adapters should you find one.......

I will disagree with the previous answer. First off by code using solder is not allowed in this case. Secondly adding a wire connector (Marette) may also not be allowed since it counts as box fill. You are only allowed to have so many wires and connectors in a box of a certain size. Adding a wire connector may excede this limit so you'll need to swap out to a bigger box.
That is technically. But yes, if there is enough white wire left in the box, jsut use a wire connector to extend it. Do twist the wires together, and use a good wire connector such as an Ideal can-twist. Not one of those el-cheapo plastic ones you buy individually. No need for electrical tape.
If the wire broke, is it because you have aluminum wiring? If so stop immediately and call an electrician. You need to use an approved connector to connect a copper pigtail to the aluminum wire. OR at the very least a connector with No-Alux. you would be surprised how many people replace old aluminum receptacles and switches with new copper decora ones and that cause major problems. Burnt wires and fire.

use a marrette to join the two together, and wrap it with electrical tape to keep them together and from arcing, when using a marrette to join them , dont twist the wires first, keep them parallel to each other and let the marrette do the work.

I dont recommend soldering a new piece but if you can attach a new piece of wire with a wire connector that is acceptable. Why did the wire break in the first place? Is it alluminum?

It can be done but don't do it yourself.
Get hold of a lic electrician.

You need a ground wire if your going to put 3 prong plugs. It's against code to just install 3 pronged plugs if you have no ground wire in the walls. This could be a major job if you have to do some demo to replace the wires.

It is possible and yes, Home Depot provides electrical contractor services. See the special services desk in any store to arrange this.

yes you will have to move your plugs out

You can get an extension to bring the box out. Most people would just leave their boxes 3/4" in the wall and use longer 10-32 machine screws to hold the plugs in. But this is wrong. Definitely get some box extensions and rewire up all your plugs.
Thomas and Betts will make what your looking for. They make everything.

Home Depot.ca and the Stores sell wiring books they have this one Home Depot Wiring 1-2-3 Can 2nd Edition under publications this one sells on line and in the store home depot also has another one on wiring.
There is a lot of good help and information in these books.
I would suggest to check out these books first
.As these books know what they are telling you is true facts.
In the search bar at Home Depot type in wiring books it will take you to the one they sell on line.
Electrical in nothing to play with if your not sure what your doing.