yes maybe special order but you will not find these one piece units in the stores at least not in edmonton,alberta or online at home depot.ca

Yes they do.
There are tub showers available in one piece in both acrylic and fibreglass at Home Depot by special order. Keystone by Maax has them in both. Usually anything that you see as a three piece is also available as a one piece (and vice versa).
One piece units are actually usually less expensive than 3pc units, but make sure you can fit the one piece through your doorway! 1pc are usually used for new construction for this reason, and 3pc for exiting home renovations because it is easier to ge the three sections through doorways, up stairs and around corners.

Not sure if it is on line but Maax offers a couple options in 1 pcs tub showers. Maax has the ASTM that they stock in 3 pcs and display in all stores but can order in 1 pcs. As well there is a new unit called the montego tub shower that is available as 1 pcs with or without roof. These are both made from acrylic.

homedepot does not sell this brand mirolin" on line. for the one piece or 2 piece tub and shower,do a search you will see.

in edmonton home depot does not sell this one piece unit.
i could not buy mine in one piece,wish i could have

yes, try a the brand "mirolin". they sell a 1 piece unit in fibreglass and also acrylic.

you do not need a permit for this as this is your own house and your work contractors needs permits i just went through all of this here in Edmonton.

you definatly do not need a plumbing permit in canada to replace 'fixtures'yes you do if your 'relocating' the fixtures...to add to what has been said, make sure you check the distance of your toilet centres, this meaning how far the drain is away from the wall...the most common is 12" this can be measured by taking the distance from the toilet bolt on the floor to the wall measurement since the toilet bolt is the drain centre, and replacing it with the same distanced centre...it'll save you from having to return any product that wont fit...and use braided flex adapters for your water supplies, they last longer then any other method.

Depending on what you are doing. If you are moving the location of the toilet or the sink, you definitely need a plumbing permit. It WILL be a hugh job and I recommend a professional renovator (not a handyman but a PROFESSIONAL Licensed plumber). If you are just changing your toilet or sink to newer ones, yes you can do it yourself, with HD's help!

The simpliest method is to remove the "cracking" grout with a grout saw to at least an 1/8th inch depth. Then regrout only that area (follow manufacturers instructions). Home Depot sells a grout paint/stain (Grout Renew?) that has a sealer in it already. Use that to colour all the grout the same colour, being carefull to wipe off any that gets on the tile itself straight away. (:

NEVER user a screwdriver to remove old grout. You risk scratching the tiles and creating another problem. There is a Simple tool available from Home Depot to help remove the old grout. Simply called a "Grout Saw" (buy extra blades) A very safe and easy to use tool. When it comes to the base of your tile. Depending on the size of the space I would recomend ( if the opening is less then 8th") use a tub and tile sylicone. Grout will crack in this area simply because of wall movement. It is a painstaking project but with patience you will be pleased. Finnaly Always seal dried and finished grout to prevent mold and discoloration. Sealer should be reapplied ever year or so. Depending on how much the shower is used. Good Luck.

There is an inexpensive grout removal tool from HD for DIYers. With that you can score the old grout lines to take out about 1/8" of grout. This way the new grout will be able to set in without problem. Hope this helps.

a shower mat is your best bet

Go online and look for a product called "Slip Guard". It is specifically desined for shower floors, old folks homes, etc. It is in a bottle. Don't know if it is available in Canada but maybe the company could ship you one. Good Luck

I had the same problem you have. I found a a product called "Glass etching compound".
It is a product used for etching glass. I cut out a decorative pattern on some heavy construction paper. I then placed this pattern on the bath tub. I applied the etching compound and let it dry. It came out perfect. I done this 2 years ago and it is still there. Easy to clean and does not peel. One thing to keep in mind. Make sure the surface you are appling it to is clean a free of all dirt and oil before appling the compound. ALWAYS use protecton gear including safety goggles. Good Luck. Let me know how you do with it.

Hello,
Depending on the quality of the tile, you may want to rethink the P&S tiles. Water is a huge problem for these tiles. Especially near a tub. Water is water and where it can get in, water will eventually cause issues. A solid piece of flooring or solid tile is a better choice. P&S tiles will also have an impact on re-sale if it is in your bathrooms.

If the subfloor is wood you should put a primer on the floor. This will help the tiles adhere to the floor much better. This is because wood is very porous and if this is not done it could just absorb the adhesive that is on the tile. If the floor is cemet then paint a sealer on the floor before applying the tiles. After installation you will need to seal the cracks between the tiles. You can also purchase this from Home Depot, it will be with the Vinyl flooring.
Around the sink, toilet and tub I would also put some caulking around those areas to keep water from getting under the tiles.
If you do this then you should be ok with laying the tiles down in a bathroom. This will help in keeping the extra moisture from getting underneath the tiles and loosening the adhesive.

Yes. We used peel & stick right over the subfloor on a rental unit that has had pretty hard use. Seven years later, they're still standing up beautifully.

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=942020&Ntt=942020&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

try this, moen make a 'cover plate' in different styles and colours to 'hide' the two hole apperance...as well, when i do these projects, i find that the best way to takle them is to go thru the wall behind the shower taps...fixing a wall(alot of times its inside a closet) is easier then tring to repair tile.anyway you go about this is going to be labour intensive...to add to the others here, make sure your valve body has no leaks once o' ever before fixing your hole...either it be teflon tape and pipe thread compound(non-lead based)for 'screw in' type valve body assemblies or solder well with no leaks(dont heat the pipe...heat the fitting to draw the solder INTO the female end)

Great question - in order for you to replace an existing 2 handle tub and shower faucet and install a new single control shower faucet you will be undertaking a large project ... but one that is relatively easy to do. This will involve removing the old faucet as well as enough of the ceramic time so you can access the valve body behind the wall (attached to the handles). The key benefit to changing to a single control updated product is that all of these types of valves are 'scald free' or 'posi-temp' meaning if you are having a shower and someone flushes a toilet, the temperature and pressure will remain unchanged (this can not be achieved with a 2 or 3 handle Tub and shower). Once the old faucet is removed, you can replace with a new single control version ... the valve will have the Hot coming into one side of the valve and the cold on the other ... (whereas your valve now has one connection to the cold handle and one to the hot). I would recommend having a licensed plumber inspect the valve installation to ensure leak free use (because this item is mounted behind a sealed wall, leaks can be very costly and damaging to your home) ... once everything is installed and checked to ensure it is 'leak-free', you would tile over the hole created to install the new valve ... and then begin enjoying your new "scald free" shower experience ... Home Depot offers a great selection of Tub and Shower product in a variety of styles and finishes! ..... good luck with your project!!!

A trap seal primer is any device that allows water to be diverted to the floor drain in order to keep water in the P Trap. Every fixture has a p trap and water must be maintained in it to keep sewer gas from entering the building. Floor drains do not have water going in to it unless you add water to it. Thus plumbing code says you need a mechanical primer that will do it for you. By removing the plug and attaching tubing to it you can run it to the floor drain, it will keep water in the P trap every time you open the faucet.

In most cases you do not need to remove the plug.
The trap seal primer plug is another method to keep an emergency floor drain from having its trap seal dry out.
Unfortunately, the instructions that you are reading don't really explain fully what you are supposed to do after removing the plug.
Actually they just tell you to remove the plug if I'm not mistaken, and pretty much stop at that regarding the plug.

Just leave it in, otherwise your floor is going to get really wet.

1st thing about mildew issue is that: Do you have a bathroom exhaust fan? If so, is it working properly? 90% of the bathroom related issues are moisture related. Get a professional contractor to inspect/install a properly sized exhaust fan, then replace caulking with good quality 100% silicone caulking. Your problem will be eliminated.

The word you are looking for is "caulking". Be sure to use a high end mold and mildew resistant silicone product designed for high moisture areas. Remove old caulking and allow the area to dry completely before you apply the new. Follow the directions, take your time and the results should last for years. Hope this helps!

ALWAYS use wonder board in areas where water could be a problem. Especially in a nd around bathti\ubs and showers. Drywall will not withstand water if it becomes and issue. Wonderboard is also much more rigid then drywall. It can take a little more impact shuld something hit your wall.

I agree with the answer before mine but also remember the best product for tub surrounds is Lepage PL 700!!

I use Enamel Epoxy pains to refinish bath tubs often. The trick to this product is to follow the product directions perfectly. If you use this product keep in mind it is extreamly toxic and will give off heavy fumes. Use it in a well ventelated room and wear protective gear including Goggles, gloves and a resperator. Word to the wise keep the pets out of the bathroom for a few days. Good luck.

If you use the enamel epoxy, which is like a liquid porcelain, make sure to apply it with a natural silk bristle brush no bigger than an inch wide. The paint is very thick and you will have less streaks this way. It makes the process longer, but the finished product looks much more professional.