More of a pacifist approach but I use cinnamon as a deterrent. Ants don't cross the line. Of course this doesn't work if they've already moved in but if you catch them before they're established it's quite effective.

Mix borax, peanut butter and sugar. Make sure you don't put too much borax or it will kill the ant before it makes it back to the colony. I think 1 tsp borax, 2 tsp pb, 1 tsp sugar. If you find dead ants, then you likely have too much borax, cut back a little so they can get it to the colony. Just be careful if you have pets or children around..... I chose not to use it because of my dog, lady at the grocery store told me about it! Swears it works.

You can try any of these methods either; a mixture of 50% borax and sugar, or cornmeal, or boiling a large pot of mint tea and applying it to the area, or just dried mint spread over the areas.

I have tried AntBGone, it doesn't work. Doesn't kill them, just moves them elsewhere. I am going to give the Raid Liquid Ant Killer a try.

try Raid liquid ant killer, its in a small red dropper bottle. The ant eats it, and takes some to the queen, it will kill the nest in a matter of 5 day. This is the BEST.

More of a deterrent really, but Ants don't like Mint. Before you go planting them everywhere keep in mind most mint plants are quite aggressive spreaders.

You have to use a liquid poison that the ants are attracted to eat and take back to the queen in their nests. Believe me this is the best!

We have a large selection of ant control products. Try ant traps, Antex, Ant B Gon, Raid, and Ant Spikes. We also have some “green/non chemical” ant control products such as Scotts Eco Sense Insecticide, Scotts EcoSense Indoor/Outdoor Insecticide Dust and Scotts EcoSense Indoor Pest Spray.

If you want to go the eco friendly route try boiling water. We often have ant problems at the start of the year and using boiling water always does the trick.

Once a cat has used your grden beds, it leaves a scent saying "available." The solution is two fold.. at least in my past success. I remove the soil or mulch they have dirtied and then use a deterent like Critter Ridder that i spread generously around. there are lots of other options, like netting that prevents them from squatting, or aluminum pie plates that scare them off. Once they have relearned that this is not THEIR place they do move on to other places. .

Mix 2 cups of vegetable oil, 2 Tbs. dry mustard and 2 Tbs. cayenne pepper. Let sit for a few days for the oil to absorb the mustard and cayenne. I store it in an old dish soap bottle. I squirt the mixture in my flower beds any time I have a cat problem, it works great!

i had the same problem many years ago. and someone told me or i read it somewhere, to plant dusty millers in your garden, there is something about the powder they give off that the cats dont like. its stings there paws and the scent is not pleasurable for animals, since i have been making dusty millers part of my flower bed design i have not had cat problems since.

Citris peels (oranges, mandarins, lemons, limes, grapefruits, etc.). Chop up or slice in thin strips. Scatter in the garden and it keeps the cats out and it smells nice all season and composts over the winter. One important thing, unfortunately, is that you should make sure you dig up/pick up any existing cat feces and get rid of it (green compost bins in a bag).

I mulch my gardens with fresh grass clippings every four to six weeks, after a day or two the clippings get a dry and cruchy, a cat steps on that and they take off right away because they don't like the feel of it under their feet. So it keeps the cats away, puts good nutrition back into the soil and best of all, doesn't cost you even a penny and available whenever your lawn is mowed.

Whatever you choose to do, I suggest you do NOT use mothballs, as they're highly poisonous to dogs, cats, and birds, and can be picked up and ingested by curious children (poisonous to them, as well).

I have tried EVERYTHING on the market. The best thing that has worked for me it to purchase lengths of chicken wire, cut it to size, and lay down on garden approximately 1/2" - 1" under the soil. The cats cannot dig and when they feel it on their feet they take off! This is my 3rd year with it in my gardens and I swear it works GREAT!!!! The neighbourhood cats don't even attempt to use my gardens any more. The odd stray will try, but as I said they just take off! Nothing else has even come close to this technique. A bit of a nusance. but it does work. I cut it into sections, therefore its much easier to handle, when I need to add or remove plants.

I've seen this powder that is supposed to work for up to 1 month. Keeps all animals dogs,cats,skunks etc. Not sure how good it is though. I need something really strong because I have a similar problem. I definitely need a permanent deterrent (lol) . If anybody has used this product please share the experience.

I;ve read that putting moth balls in the garden helps keep them out because they don;t like the smell.
You can also try sprinkling cayenne pepper on the soil, when they go to sniff or dig they will be turned off from the pepper.

When wanting to get rid of grass, I don't rent equipment, or do back breaking turning of the soil.

I lay out cardboard. It works beautifully and is free. The cardboard slowly breaks down as the grass dies. I will lay cardboard, then top soil on top and plant my garden immediately (I shove my spade through the cardboard). As the grass dies it acts as a slow release fertilizer to the plants. I don't have any grass at all any more, both front and back are perinnial gardens.

Newspaper works too but I found it breaks down too fast.

Note that the use of Roundup to kill grass is illegal in the province of Ontario. Solarization (using black plastic) is a great way to get rid of grass, but takes time. You will get the best results this way.

The great idea about renting the sod remover is you may find a neighbour or friend who is interesting in using your sod in their yard and you can split the cost of the rental and the sod doesn't go to waste. That's what my Dad did when he was putting his patio in where he lives and the did the job together too. Win win for everyone, including the environment.

Renting a machine to strip the sod is an excellent way to recoop some of the cost of getting it removed. People are always looking for established sod on new home builds and landscaping projects. So why not pass it on to someone that can use it?

If possible, cover with black plastic, such as garbage bags, peg down, this should only take a couple of weeks to kill grass, weeds etc. For the veggie garden area, cover with many layers of newspaper & put soil directly on top. The newspaper will act as a grass killer & will break down to be a good compost for the garden

Another way to do it would be to cover it with black plastic (cut up and opened garbage bags would do), peg this so it doesn't blow away. This will kill allthe grass

I have used black fabric sold specifically for covering the ground (as at Home Depot) and it keeps the light out so that everything dies underneath. It comes in a roll. Maybe that would help.

If you can get your hands on Round Up this will kill grass within a couple days

eco option ;try egg shells ,break them up and put in your soil.. they hate it cause it cuts there skin and they move on somewhere else. and not in your garden.

Further to my reply yesterday, I tried this last year and my hostas were free of slugs and snails all season. At the beginning of the growing season, before things begin to really grow (now) spray a mixture of 10 parts water to 1 part ammonia on plants and surrounding ground. I'll do it this week and again in a couple of weeks, just to be sure. Its safe, inexpensive and effective. That's it for the season. Repeat every year.

People say to use beer or gather up hair from the floor of a beauty salon ( the hair stabs the slug as its so sharp) The best luck I have had is Snail Bait.( Green and white box) it's cheap, non toxic and will not hard other critters, birds or people if it is ingested. it bloats the slug till it dies. You can get it at any garden store. Good luck

First, place a few broken clay flower pots, or similar, thru out the garden, with an opening at ground level. These will attract toads and toads eat slugs and snails. And toads are very cool, and if you have children, they will love to see them.

Hi Clonmore3,
We do have a few products to help control snails and slugs. Please visit http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/... to see these products. I hope this helps.

An easy plant is a peace lilly, they are easy to find and will even do great in a front hallway, as long as there is enoungh sunlight to read it is perfect there.

You could also try a peace lilly. They are easy to find and do perfectly in a front hallway as well. As long as there is enough sunlight to read, it is perfect.

The easiest plant to grow is a sansevieria or as it is also known as a mother in laws tounge and snake plant.It will grow anywhere.I put one in my bosses office with no windows,only florescent lighting about 3 years ago and it is still alive and well.Overwatering is usually the only problem this plant could have so let it dry out in between.

Chinese evergreen, a lovely plant with good growth habits, nice occasional flowers and attractive berries is great for low light. Many ferns would also do well in low light conditions.

Rodgersia can give your shady spot a tropical look with large leaves. It really loves shade and flowers white tiny flowers in clusters. I combine it with different colors of hostas and some yarrow for the furry leaves that contrast nicely with the large leaves of the other plants. Forget-me-nots flowers all summer where I have them and they give a lovely color and texture variation as well. I have my shady garden on the side of the house that is dry as well as shady. I water the flowers a few times a week and they don't get soaked, the soil dries in between and they do very well with this. If your shady garden is wet, you wouldn't have to water; these plants like moist soil, but not soaking wet. You can also try a shade loving hydrangea. Hydrangeas flower from spring to fall.

Before you start planting anything, there are a few things to do first that will result in a garden you can enjoy and be proud of for a long time. First, make a to-scale drawing of your garden space, including the house edge, window and door placement and any hardscaping you are keeping or planning to add (deck, shed, water feature, the area that is used for opening your door, etc.). Knowing where you can look out onto your garden from windows and door(s) will help you place your favourite specimens in your line of sight and give you more enjoyment of them from inside your home. Then go to Home Depot or any store that carries gardening books. Without spending a lot of money, you should be able to get a good book that will not only give you a list of shade-loving plants, but will help determine how much and how heavy your shade actually is in each area, so you can make good choices. It will also teach you how to properly plant, and look after, the plants you choose. Make sure you choose plants that suit your climate zone and will give you a range of bloom times, as well as foliage plants to provide a good foundation. Follow the maximum sizing details when you are siting plants, so you avoid having to pull up overcrowded or hidden plants. Perennials, shrubs and trees give you the most longevity, but are the most expensive. If you can't plant everything at once, begin with a tree and shrubs as your anchors. Then get as many perennials as you can afford, watching for sales and season closeouts. Don't forget that there are perennial bulbs, too. Another way to save money is by dividing some types of plants straight out of the pot to get more coverage. For example, when I buy Hostas, I look for ones that have multiple main stems. I can usually get one pot with 5 or 6 individuals in it, making the price per plant very low. To fill in any area that you can't cover all at once, buy shade-tolerant annuals in the largest and least expensive (per plant) size you can. Some gardeners save a space for annuals every year, so they can try new things there every year. Just try to coordinate the annuals with the colour scheme and size ranges of the rest of your garden. With proper care, you will have a beautiful yard in no time. No matter what requirements your specific site has for light, temperature and moisture, these guidelines cover the very first steps you should take to ensure a successful garden, be it flower or vegetable. Good luck to all gardeners!

Ferns- lady fern, Japaneese painted fern, osterich fern all grow well in shade. Try Jacobs ladder, Heurcherra and lily of the vally, also toad lilies, most any hosta, and Blushing Bride.
Corba Lily is also beautiful.

There are many different kinds of plants you can try out - it depends on whether you would like flowers, foliage or both. :) Hostas are wonderful, Astilbe, impatiens, begonias, fuchsia, Virginia blue Bells, and Foxglove add lovely color, and for an interesting plant, you could try a variety of lilies that grow well in shade. Good luck!

I would suggest first making sure your balcony can handle constant moisture. You want to make sure the extra weight (depending on how much your planting) or the watering won't damage your balcony. Then i would suggest planning the layout of your garden, make it easy to move around, harvesting mature vegetables etc.

Some tips on planting a small vegetable garden on your balcony:
How to plant in pots:
- Place rocks or pebbles in the bottom of the pot to keep the spol from trickling out through the drainage holes.
- Add potting soil.
- Plant flowers/vegetables at the same depth as they were in their original pot or planter.
- Water.
- If a lot of soil is visible, add mulch or decorative rock or shells for effect and to contain moisture.
These vegetable plants are great for small spaces:
- Dwarf fruit trees, such as lemon, orange and apple
- Oregano, sage, thyme, rosemary
-peppers
-strawberries
-tomatoes
Container plants require the same care as do plants in a garden, with one important difference: A plant growing in a container can't do what regular, inground plants do, which is send roots far off or deep in a wider area in search of moisture, nutrients and such.
Container-grown plants that endure drastic cycles where they dry out and then get drenched are generally unhappy customers. The extremes stress out the plants. And of course, if you rush in to rehydrate a plant wilting in distress and you're too late, it drops all its leaves, swoons and dies. Be consistent!
-Information taken from Gardening Basics For Canadians For Dummies and Feng Shui your Garden For Dummies (Home Depot Sku # 972146)

Tomatoes are always the easiest to start with. Buy a large container from the store and put soil in it especially made for containers (says so on label). I would suggest starting smaller tomatoes. The tiny tim variety do not need a stake to hold them up. Or you could try Sweet Millions but you will need to stake that variety. Purchase your plants when they arrive in the store and you are ready to go. Remember tomatoes need lots of water

Perennials can be planted anytime, as long as all danger of frost is over. Research plant info before purchasing, (ex. growth size, planting instructions re: sun, shade, part sun or part shade locations, as well as how tall or wide plant will grow, etc. so that you plant in the right area of your garden. If possible, break or cut pot that plants are sold in to remove the plant and roots intact. Follow planting instructions as to depth and how far apart, whether to add fertilizer at planting, etc. Dig hole, add water, cover and gently tamp soil around roots, then cover and tamp soil so that plant is "securely" upright and stable.
Attract butterflies with: sedum(tall varieties), purple coneflower, pincushion flowers, bluebeard, allium, hollyhock, turtlehead, coral bells, columbine, bee balm, to name a few.
'Remember, chemicals not only kill weeds they kill larvae...the caterpillar is the beginnings of our butterflies. ..

Perennials can be planted anytime after they start to show green. Columbine, milkweed and coneflowers attract butterflies.

Perennials can be planted anytime as long as their is no chance of frost.,
Coneflower is an easy perennial to plant and the butterflies like it,
there is also a plant called "Butteryfly bush that they are attracted to.

Hi, Your plant is not a Palm. It sounds like a Draecena.
All plants - should be kept out of the way of cats - check the internet - your vet. or the Garden Expert at home depot - re danger to cats.

Sounds like Dracaena (corn plant). Is the trunk woody (brown) and about 6 inches (or more) around?
Google it, you should find all kinds on care info.

Easter Lilies need to be fed. Most commercial potting mixes don't contain many nutrients and rely on liquid fertilizer. Use an organic houseplant food and follow the manufacture's recommendations. Feed them every five days while they are blooming.
The flowers will bloom in succession so as the first blooms die remove them to encourage the next set of flowers to open. Lilies are not likely to bloom again if left in a pot so when they are finished the original plant will die back within a few weeks of bloom. At this time it should be cut back to the soil surface. New growth will emerge by summer if kept watered on the window sill. It may bloom again in the fall but a better way to get blooms is to lift the bulb and cold treat.
Cold treat bulbs by putting them in a plastic bag with moist peat moss and refrigerating them at 40 degrees F. for six weeks. This cooling process gets them ready to be forced into bloom again. After cooling, they may be potted up for the 5 to 8 week forcing period.
Depending on what variety they are you can plant the cold treated bulbs outdoors and you may get blooms again before the fall frosts. You can lift the bulbs in the fall to store over the winter and re-plant in a pot to grow for Easter again next year. This is not something you want to try unless you are familiar with the proper care and storage of bulbs. You can also provide a good layer of mulch and leave them in the ground to winter over. Give them a try in your yard and see what happens. I can tell you without a doubt that mice like lily bulbs and will do considerable damage if they can get to them. Even those cute little "Easter bunnies" are not above a meal of lily bulbs if they aren't too busy hiding those little chocolate eggs.
Hyacinths do come back year after year when planted in your garden and can be forced like the easter lilies as described above. When planting in the garden they require a good dose of well cooked compost early spring and fall / regular fertilizing with a comercial organic liquid fertilizer. Do not cut back the leaves as this is what feeds the bulb for the next years flower. They will die off on their own. Have a grand spring!

Both are bulbs that are forced to bloom for the Easter season. The bulbs must freeze in order to produce, they are usually planted in the fall if purchased from a retailer to bloom in the spring. Yes, but they will not flower again until next year.